Fish-keeping is a very feasible and pleasurable hobby that is loved by people of almost every age group, from children to adults. But at the same time, a single act of mismanagement or carelessness can get your fish in danger.
Why the Aquarium Freshwater Fish are Vulnerable to Disease Attacks?
The aquarium freshwater is vulnerable to numerous diseases because of the artificially created water habitat or ecosystem under controlled conditions and parameters. It’s very crucial that you are well aware of the science of the aquarium ecosystem, how to maintain water parameters, the proper diet of your fish, and the water chemistry of the aquarium if you want to keep your fish healthy and disease-free.
At first, it’s difficult to detect or locate where the problem lies. Even if you find the problem, it becomes even more challenging to treat the sickness, because unlike other pets, you cannot take your ill fish to some vet and seek for examination. The treatment of fish aquarium diseases is time-taking and demands patience.
The Most Frequently Asked Question by Fish Hobbyists:
So the most frequently asked question by the fish hobbyists is that, “What sort of illness can my fish have, and how can it be treated at home in an easy possible way?” But no worries at all! Just relax! The good thing about freshwater fish diseases is that most of the diseases are easy to detect, and are diagnosed on time may save your fish’s life for sure. You don’t have to worry at all because most of the common aquarium fish diseases are easy to treat, and if done, your fish can survive for a longer time. The point to ponder here is that your fish can acquire any type of disease depending on the cause. Some of the fish freshwater diseases are discussed below with elaborated physical signs, behavioral signs, causes, and treatment.
Anchor Worms
“Anchor worm” is an aquarium fish disease. It is mostly seen on golden fish or koi but can infect any type of fish. If you all of a sudden look at the name “anchor worms” you will most probably think it of some worm related disease, but it’s not a worm at all. The factor is some copepod related disease.
The copepod is a zoo-plankton that can perforate deep into the body of the fish via the route of the scales. It attaches to the fish body by using its hook-like appendages, and its main target is to feed on the body fluids. The factor can also spread over to the gills and mouth cavities of the fish. But no worries at all! You can locate this disease. It mostly starts with a simple reddish spot on the fish skin. It is named so because this disease “anchors” intensely into the fish body in the tail region or dorsal part of the fish. This disease itself is not that common, but even if it somehow occurs, it weakens the immune system of your fish, which ultimately makes the fish vulnerable to other diseases or secondary attacks.
Symptoms
- Few thin white threads knob out from the fish’s skin
- Tiny red or white-green worms protruding out of the base of fish skin.
- Inflammation or redness at the anchor part or other parts of the fish skin.
- Ulcers can also appear
- Difficulty in breathing
- Rubbing against objects.
Causes
- The possible cause may be some infected fish introduced into the aquarium or the larvae of the worms introduced through plants.
Treatment
- Physically cleaning the inflamed or red part of fish with some antiseptic like iodine.
- Bathing the freshwater fish in the sea-water (35ppt) for some 5-7 days to get rid of the parasite.
- Other treatments can be formalin dip, Potassium permanganate dip to wash away any eggs or larvae of parasites.
- Sometimes the tweezers are also used to pull out the parasite, but this should be done with extreme care, as sometimes while pulling the parasite, it can beak inside the fish body.
Dropsy
The disease is another commonly encountered aquarium disease. In this disease, a white fluid usually accumulates inside the fish body that can scatter in other parts and damages the internal organs, mostly the kidneys and other renal organs. The worst thing about this disease is the high mortality rate of this disease if it’s not diagnosed on time.
Symptoms
- Bloated appearance on the fish skin.
- Ejected eyes.
- Protruded scales.
- Deprivation of appetite.
- A rapid and irregular pattern in breathing.
Causes
- Mostly this disease is a result of bacterial infection generated by the well-known aquatic bacteria called Aeromonas. This bacterium is usually present in the water tank, but the worst thing is that it usually attacks the vulnerable fishes which are infected with other serious diseases.
- The factor may be caused due to the contaminated water of the aquarium.
Treatment
- Unfortunately, it is not easily cured.
- Still, if you diagnose the disease at the early stages, the best possible suggestion is to quarantine the fish in its tank and add Epsom salt to the tank.
- Turn off the UV sterilizers if the need arises.
Ich (White Spot Disease)
Ich, which is also called white spot disease, is another common disease found in fish aquariums that is caused by bacterial activity. It usually results when a protozoan gets itself attached to the body of the fish, their fins, and gills also. It is a crucial bacterial disease if it is not treated on time.
Symptoms
- White spots on the body of fish that may also take the shape of white patches if exaggerated.
- Fins become clamped or clipped.
- Loss of appetite
- Rubbing up against objects in the tank
- Rapid or irregular breathing
Causes
- An unexpected drop in temperature, mostly in colder winters or if the water is changed in the aquarium at some lower temperature.
- The disease may also arise in case if some infected fish is introduced into the aquarium.
- Decorations or plants that carry the cysts or eggs of the parasite.
Treatment
- Remove carbon from the aquarium as it will absorb any medication you will introduce into the aquarium.
- As it is a common disease, it’s easy to look for some medication from your regional aquatic shop dealing with aquatic products and medications, or you can even order online like white spot cure. Apply that to the aquarium by carefully following the instructions.
- You can increase the temperature of the aquarium to 30°C or even higher. The elevated temperature results in the acceleration of the life cycle of the parasitic organism.
- The addition of aquarium salt (not the common sodium chloride salt) to elevated temperatures will further wipe out the parasites present. Salt alters with the fluid that is accumulated inside the Ich and makes the natural mucous coating of your fish to protect it from the parasite.
Overall Prevention Measures
Directly or indirectly, more or less, the connection of all the known freshwater fish diseases is linked to the factor of stress. In the morphology of fishes and other aquatic animals, stress plays a very significant role. Stress is the factor that can weaken the immune system of your fishes that ultimately makes your fishes vulnerable to bacterial, parasitic, fungal, or any other attack.
The sources that can lead to such stress include; shipping of one or two organisms from one environment to other, substandard water quality, lacks in water chemistry, poor filtration, contaminated additives in the aquarium, poor or imbalanced diet, overcrowding, turning the aquarium lights on for a longer time, any kind of abrasions, hostility from other fish, and uncomfortable atmosphere. To keep your fish in optimum health, don’t forget to change aquarium water regularly, be punctilious about aquarium maintenance, focus on a high-quality diet, avoid overloading your aquarium from organisms, and illuminate the aquarium for the stipulated time.
Why Quarantine is Important for Fish
A way of sustaining a parasitic-free aquarium is to isolate all new additions to the aquarium for some time. If you quarantine a new fish before introducing it into the aquarium, this can reduce the risk of inculcating any disease-carrying organism into your aquarium. This allows you to nurse any sick fish if the need occurs without introducing contaminants into your show tank.
Whenever you purchase a new fish, place them in some isolation for a minimum time of 30 days. This will make sure they are healthy and are not ill. Then you can have a net, fistula, algae abrasive, and other required appliances for your isolated aquarium. Don’t you think to use the same appliances for your regular aquarium. Doing so will only transmit the diseases and violate the motive of the isolated aquarium. You can use bleach water for disinfecting and rinse well regularly. After you are done with your aquarium, wash your hands properly with some anti-bacterial hand-wash touching the regular aquarium.
Ultra-Violet (UV)- as a Decontaminator:
There is no probability that your aquarium does not contain any disease-causing organisms or parasites at all. The parasites and bacteria usually occur in every kind of fish tank, aquarium, or water body. So for that case, Ultra-violet sterilizers are prescribed. They kill disease-transmitting organisms. They also suspended algae in the aquarium and help keep the water clean, pure, and crystal clear. Usually, the UV Sterilizers are available in various sizes according to the needs. It’s obligatory to remove the use of UV sterilizer lamps after the interval of every ten months for maximum performance.